The Real Review Winery of the Year Australia 2025 - Wine by Farr
Vintage 2024 – Wine by Farr
"The feeling of the season leading up to the 2024 vintage, was one of hope. The property was poised for a healthy and vigorous growing season, yet rainfall is required for this to be achieved! Some winter rains certainly helped but overall the Spring rains didn’t really eventuate as it had during the previous 4 year’s seasons. The resilience of the vineyards was evident though, with average cropping levels seemingly achievable with the assistance of some timely showers and irrigation to maintain the canopy through some warmer weather during February.
The season was certainly mild throughout but the warmer weather was only towards our first picking date of 27th Feb. We tested the waters and decided after two days of picking that the fruit was capable of achieving greater flavour. We resumed picking on the 4th March and never looked back. The Irrewarra vineyard was started on the 19th March followed wonderfully by the Gamay and Shiraz. As we felt another vintage was coming to a close quite swiftly the Nebbiolo once again didn’t play ball. By mid April it was time to finish, so the Nebbiolo was picked and stalling at 12 Beaume. It was destined for Rose for another year.
The whites fermented extremely slowly but perhaps that has been an important factor in the tension that the wines have maintained, considering the warm finish to the season. Classic “Farr” – Calm power.
As for the reds, they certainly remind me of the 2016 vintage. Wines that where capable of being pushed a little harder than the previous 4 vintages. The end result yet still in barrel, have great concentration, character and poise." - Wine by Farr
2024 by Farr Viognier
The By Farr viognier consists of a blend of fruit from two vineyards. The first is the original house block, planted in 1994, which is friable red soil over limestone leading to sandstone—similar soils to the Sangreal pinot noir and By Farr chardonnay. The second vineyard is a younger planting of unknown clones in red ironstone soil. The viognier is a difficult variety to manage as it has a tendency to grow horizontally rather than vertically, needs a lot of water and can become sunburnt very easily. Because of this we have decided to pick the fruit earlier in the past few years in order to retain its natural acidity, ensuring we maintain varietal character and creating a more delicate and refined wine.
Vinification
Viognier is foot stomped and left for two or more hours on its skins to extract the phenols, flavour and texture. The fruit is then pressed, cooled and put straight into barrel with all solids for a natural fermentation. Gentle stirring during the end of autumn encourages malolactic fermentation, which softens the finish by converting the tart malic acid to lactic acid. The wine is then racked, fined and filtered. It is ready to be bottled 11 months after harvest.
Tasting Notes
A lovely perfumed, yet subtle expression of viognier. Fresh peach and apricot flavours as a young wine, which we believe will intensify over time. The palate is restrained, luscious and shows a ginger-flavoured freshness with underlying power and lingering aftertaste. This wine benefits beautifully from 12 months of bottle ageing, as the acid softens.
Tasting notes by Ben Knight (Ben and Wine)
"The ‘24 Viognier is an ultimate expression of oxidative winemaking, surrounded by bright acidity and savoury qualities. The wine has weight but think structure and refinement with a velvet touch. Year in year out, the Viognier by Farr blows the stereotypes of the variety to pieces, with it’s beautiful balance of peach, green ginger spice, chalk, flint and saline finish. Fast becoming another cult Farr wine."
2024 by Farr Chardonnay
The By Farr chardonnay comes from the same site as the Sangreal pinot noir—composed of red soil over limestone—and was planted in 1994. The limestone of this site is not exposed on the surface as at other sites. The limestone starts 20 to 30cm below the surface, to the depths of the root zone of the vines. It is a very exposed north-facing slope. The clones used for the chardonnay are a mixture of Dijon clones and Penfolds 58.
Vinification
The fruit is hand-picked then whole-bunch pressed in the winery. All the solids are collected and chilled before being put to barrel, which are 30 per cent new French oak. A natural fermentation will occur at cool temperatures over the next one to two months, and then a small amount of stirring helps start malolactic fermentation. The wine is then racked, fined and lightly filtered before bottling 11 months after picking. A very mineral site for chardonnay.
Tasting Notes
The trademark characteristics of the wine produced on our site are understated power and length with a mineral finish. The wine has a great fruit expression that is well integrated with French oak. The soil characteristics have come through in the style of wine we have today. The palate is fine but firm, with great acidity, texture and length. This wine is rich in flavour, yet very refined.
Tasting notes by Ben Knight (Ben and Wine)
"As always, the Chardonnay by Farr is as good an example of this grape as you will find. It pleases those that read and drink widely and pleases those who don’t care for all the flummery, yet still want great wine. Whichever side you are on, it doesn’t change how the wine tastes. The 2024 Chardonnay by Farr has such a lovely softness and is balanced by a tightrope of acidity. The wine is generous without being too forward, and the complexity of this wine is peerless in my opinion. It has aromatic and ripe fruit expression, but at its heart it is saline and savoury with terrific length. I always try to drink the wine while l write these, which is perhaps why l wrote so many words. It meant l could drink more of this stunning wine."
Vintage 2023 – by Farr
"After three solid years of rain the team had hoped for some different growing conditions. Unfortunately not, a cool and wet Spring in 2022 meant that there was server disease pressure and constant canopy management required up until Christmas. Because of the two previous growing seasons the team was well aware of what was required and did an amazing job once again.
Crop levels certainly seemed below average because of the cool and windy conditions, particularly in the chardonnay sites.
With frequent rain events throughout January and early February the ripen period was making little progress until we finally saw extended days into weeks of dryer and warmer weather. The welcome relief started to show us signs of delicate, super fine flavours, driven by high acidities.
Our first day of picking was set for the 16th March, we decided to hedge our bets and pick a little Chardonnay from the Cooper block and a couple of ton of Pinot from the Windmill block. With acidity still quite high and looking for balance of flavours we decided to not pick again until the 20th March. We harvested our last fruit in Bannockburn on the 6th April, and Irrewarra fruit on the 14th April.
All in all we are excited about the fruit that we grew and the wines they are becoming yet it is the smallest vintage since 2002." - Wine by Farr
2023 by Farr Farrside Pinot Noir
The Farrside vineyard sits on a northeast-facing slope and consists of limestone topped with black volcanic soil. The vines were planted in 2001 and run east-west to protect the fruit from overexposure to the sun. The clones are a mixture of 114, 115, 777, 667 and MV6. Even though the Farrside and Sangreal vineyards are only 300 metres apart, the darker soils and cooler growing conditions of the Farrside vineyard mean these grapes are picked 10 to 12 days after all others and produce a more masculine and edgy wine.
Vinification
The fruit is hand-picked and sorted in the vineyard, then fermented in an open-top fermenter. Between 40 to 50 per cent of the fruit will be stemmed and then cold soaked for four days. We use only the natural yeast for the fermentation process, which takes roughly 12 days. Grape-stomping (known as pigeage) will occur two to three times a day depending on the amount of extraction required, and the wine is then placed in 50 to 60 per cent new Allier barrels by gravity. It is racked by gas after secondary fermentation, then again at 18 months to be bottled.
Tasting notes by Ben Knight (Ben and Wine)
"The evolution of this site and wine is complexing, gone are the days of words being used like bold, brash and muscular. Now two decades of releasing the wine, the description is fine, vibrate and ethereal. This wine has a retained nose for the moment, but the mouthfeel is almost jubilant in comparison. Even against the Sangreal, this feels plush and luxurious. A soft creamy and varietal ripeness, all swirling around to deliver lots of pleasure. It’s texturally generous and provides a nice counterpoint to the tight, edgy flavours of spice and pepper that is Farrside."
2023 by Farr Sangreal Pinot Noir
The Sangreal vineyard was planted in 1994, making it our oldest vineyard. It lies on a north-facing slope and the soil composition is bluestone and overlaying limestone, with red ironstone colouring the surface. This is unlike our other vineyards, which are mostly black volcanic soil with heavy amounts of limestone on the surface. The vine rows run north-south, receiving full sun exposure throughout the day, resulting in more perfumed, prettier wines. This is always the first vineyard to be harvested. The clones used in Sangreal are 114 and 115, which we believe have mutated over time to become the ‘Sangreal clone’, now within its own microclimate.
Vinification
Sangreal is consistently made with 70 per cent whole bunch and aged in 70 percent new oak. It is fermented in a five-tonne oak barrel with an open-top fermenter, and cold soaked for four days before a natural fermentation of seven to nine days. Once the cap falls, the tank is pressed. The wine is racked only once after malolactic fermentation, then sulphured and bottled, the entire process taking a total of 18 months. The wine is unfined and unfiltered in order to retain its natural flavour and bouquet. Sangreal is the most seamless and perfumed of the three single-vineyard pinots.
Tasting Notes
Each year the same descriptive notes come to mind for this wine: seductive, perfumed, seamless balance and moreish. It is a site that wavers very little in more difficult vintages and excels in the great ones—this is the backbone of By Farr wines. The alluring characters of this vineyard, combined with red fruits, whole bunch, acidity and oak, have produced a beautifully interwoven expression of site and vintage. That’s what it’s all about.
Tasting notes by Ben Knight (Ben and Wine)
"Sour cherry and cream. Green pepper, cornichon, dried citrus peel. Loads of brown spice like mace, cloves and even a waft of cardamom. Ripe plum, dark cherries, dried earth and a warmth, not from alcohol but generosity of flavour. The wine is so welcoming. I just had the smallest sip, and this wine just mushrooms out, that classic peacocks tail writ large across my palate. It’s so intense and complex. It has an acid level equal to its myriad layers, which just heightens the excitement of this wine. In my wine life I have tasted many wines, but no winery l can think of comes close to a house style as Wine By Farr. Like it or love it, you can tell who grew and made these wines. In these wines is an undeniable presence of place and winemaker."
2023 by Farr Shiraz
Shiraz fruit comes from the original By Farr vineyard, planted in 1994. It lies on a north-facing slope, and the red volcanic soil has a base of limestone with deep-set sandstone.
Vinification
All fruit is hand-picked from the VSP trellising, with 20 per cent left as whole bunches in the fermentation. Most years we co-ferment between 2 and 4 per cent viognier with the shiraz, the date determining whether or not the former is co-fermented and bled back. It is a natural fermentation, with the fruit remaining in the tank for 19 days before pressing. Shiraz sees 18 months in French oak, 20 per cent being new, and is bottled under vacuum.
Tasting Notes
A powerful nose, with the depth and complexity of cool-climate shiraz. This wine is spiced with pepper and mineral elements, leaning towards earthy. The co-fermented viognier adds a little richness to both the bouquet and palate, which has a very pleasant sweetness to start, followed by intense fruit and earthy long tannins to complete the delicate structure and overall elegance of the wine.
Tasting notes by Ben Knight (Ben and Wine)
"This is sensational. It’s everything that amazing Shiraz tastes like. I say that from a non “big Aussie” Shiraz viewpoint. How a wine from the Moorabool Valley tastes like something from the Northern Rhone escapes me. Salty, peppery, black olives, floral notes and barrel spice. It has a coolness to it, accentuated by the acid that makes you finish one sip and immediately go for another one. It’s hard not to be gluttonous when a wine tastes this good. It is a breathtaking example of cool climate Shiraz and words cannot express the delight that it delivers. I’m so happy drinking this wine."
(Nick Farr - Farr Rising / www.byfarr.com.au)