Winner 2023 Halliday Wine Companion Winery of the Year
“Tucked into a bend of the meandering Coal River, there is a deep spirit about the quaint Cooinda Vale vineyard, still the source of Pooley’s finest wines. To winemaker Anna Pooley, sense of place is everything, “for this is where the heart and soul of wine exists.” It is the eloquent articulation of the native Tasmanian spirit of the rugged and beautiful landscapes of their Cooinda Vale and Butcher’s Hill vineyards that has elevated Pooley Wines to the pinnacle of Australian pinot noir, chardonnay and riesling…”
Tyson Stelzer, Halliday Wine Companion
About
Pooley Wines was established in 1985 when the late Denis and Margaret Pooley planted ten rows of Riesling and seven rows of Pinot Noir on their 16-hectare farm at Cooinda Vale in the Coal River Valley in southern Tasmania, and then a further second vineyard in the Coal River Valley at Richmond. Margaret Pooley remained the chief executive of Cooinda Vale Vineyard until well into her nineties. She was a hardy Scot and could be found tending vines during the coldest Tasmanian winters.
In 2003, John Pooley, son of Denis and Margaret, and his wife Libby bought Belmont, a heritage-listed Georgian home on the outskirts of Richmond. They have been lovingly renovating this second Pooley Wines Coal River Valley property, and have planted vines on nearby Butchers Hill. In 2007 the first vintage of Pinot was produced. The cellar door is housed in old sandstone stables on the Belmont property.
All the vines are tended by Matt Pooley and wines made by his sibling Anna Pooley and husband Justin Bubb.
Growing Season
The 2023 growing season started with budburst in September and continued with flowering in November. This year, we experienced a lot of wind and rain during flowering which makes for very challenging conditions. Between October and December 2022, there was 230mm of rainfall at both of our vineyard sites. It resulted in poor fruit set, and an overall reduction in yield for the season. Late December saw the rain disappear, leading away from the La Nina weather pattern and towards a drier, warmer El Nino period. It was a mild summer with no extremes of heat, whilst remaining warm. This is great for steady and slow development of flavour, acid, sugar, and tannin. All the elements that make for great quality wine.
2023 Riesling
Varietal/s: Riesling
GI: Coal River Valley, Tasmania.
Clones: GM198, 1001, GM119
Yield: 4-6 tonnes / Ha
Baume: 11.0 to 12.1
Alcohol: 12.8%
PH: 3.05
TA: 9.3g/L
Residual Sugar: 3.0g/L
Harvest Date: 3rd April 2023 - 20th April 2023
Bottle Date: 8th September 2023
Production: 13,620 bottles
Vinification:
Fruit was hand picked and cooled overnight to 5 degrees. Whole bunch pressed the following day. Inoculated ferment with TXL yeast in stainless steel. Followed by 4 months maturation on fine lees.
Tasting Notes:
A bright and crunchy cool-climate riesling with notes of citrus peel, nectarine, and granny smith apple on the nose. Lemon curd, gooseberry and pink grapefruit follow on the palate. A slight note of talc, with a nervy acid profile and a textured, lingering finish.
2023 Pinot Grigio
Varietal/s: Pinot Grigio
GI: Coal River Valley, Tasmania.
Alcohol: 13.3%
PH: 3.1
TA: 9 g/L
Production: 25,135 bottles
Residual Sugar: 0 g/L
Vinification:
The fruit was chilled to 5 degrees then whole-bunch pressed to tank. Cold settled and racked to tank for ferment. On fine lees for 3 months.
Tasting Note:
A vibrant aroma of citrus blossom, candy apple and yuzu on the nose. Bright characters of white peach and apricot follow on the palate with subtle notes of green apple and beeswax. Strong acid and persistent length finish this lovely wine.
Optimal Drinking: 2023-2028
2023 Chardonnay
Varietal/s: Chardonnay
Alcohol: 13.3%
GI: Tasmania, Australia
TA: 8.82g/L
PH: 3.15
Clone/s: P56, P76
Yield: 5.0 T/Ha
Baume: 12.3
Harvest Date: March 23rd 2023
Bottle Date: November 8th, 2023
Production: 9333 bottles.
Vinification:
Fruit was cooled to 5 degrees overnight before being whole bunch pressed. Juice was fermented in tank to keep temperatures maintained at 18 degrees celsius then transferred to barrel at less than 1 Baume to finish ferment in barrel. It remained in barrel for 7 months on full lees. It was aged in French oak barriques of which 20% were new. 20% malolactic fermentation.
Tasting Notes:
Summer fruits on the nose with white peach, rockmelon, and pear followed by a palate of candy apple, nectarine and toasted biscuit. Plenty of generosity and depth of character with a lean acid profile and seamlessly integrated oak.
Optimal Drinking: 2021 - 2031
2023 Pinot Noir
Volume: 750mls
Alcohol: 13%
pH: 3.67
Standard Drinks 7.7
Acidity: 5.9g/L
Maturation: Matured for 11 months in French oak (10% New). A mixture of (90%) puncheons (500L) with a small portion matured in (10%) barriques (225L).
Closure: ScrewCap
Style: Dry
Vintage Notes:
The season started with consistent spring rainfall that built a solid foundation with strong, healthy canopies and bountiful bunch numbers. Mild conditions continued through to summer with few days reaching over 25C. The start of Autumn provided glorious sunshine days and cool oceanic evenings hailing the start of veraison. The vacant heat returned shortly thereafter to kickstart what would be a long and late vintage. The fruit was in absolutely no rush to be picked and showed its relaxed appreciation through integrated and balanced phenolic profiles.
Vineyard Notes:
Fruit sourced from Butcher’s Hill, Cooinda Vale and select vineyards from the Coal River Valley.
Winemaking:
A blend of Cooinda Vale and Butcher’s Hill with the addition of some smaller parcels of selected growers within the Coal River Valley. Wild fermentation (5% whole bunch) over 14 days then 7-day post ferment maceration. Fermentation took place in 2.5-tonne open ferment stainless steel with pumping over once per day. Matured for 11 months in French oak (10% New). A mixture of (90%) puncheons (500L) with a small portion matured in (10%) barriques (225L).
Tasting Notes:
Bright notes of fresh raspberry, cherries and black pepper on the nose with an underlying layer of mineral and cacao. On the palate, it’s persistent with generous red fruits, cedar, subtle game, and a dusting of aniseed. It’s delicately balanced with fine tannin and brilliant acidity.
(Image: Butcher's Hill, Richmond - Pooley Wines / www.pooleywines.com.au)
Butcher's Hill, Richmond
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Year of first establishment: 2003
Soil: Black cracking clay and sandy loams with sandstone composite gravel from sandstone over heavy clay.
Aspec: North Facing Slope
Elevation: 30m-100m
Area Planted: 6 hectares
Varietals: Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, Riesling and Pinot Grigio
Butchers Hill Vineyard is a prominent feature of the Richmond landscape as it protrudes from its borders. This site’s steep north-facing slope means that it receives some very long sunlight hours, protection from cold southern winds, and increased soil drainage. The iron oxide deposits in our soils allows for heat and water to be held longer as they are darker and more clay based. These soil attributes also interact with the production of flavonoids in the fruit which typically produces complex robust wines.
2023 Butcher's Hill Chardonnay
Varietal/s: Chardonnay
Alcohol: 12.8%
GI: Tasmania, Australia
TA: 7.9 g/L
PH: 3.20
Clone/s: P96, P76 and I10V1
Yield: 3 T/Ha
Baume: 12.30
Harvest Date: 18th March 2023
Bottle Date: 21st February 2024
Production: Bottles
Vinification:
Fruit was handpicked. Whole bunch pressed to tank. Then racked to barrel for fermentation. CHD yeast was used. Matured for 10 months in French oak barriques (228 litres) of which 35% was new. The cooperage was Sirugue. This wine saw 35% MLF completed.
Vineyard:
Location: Butcher’s Hill, Richmond.
Appellation: Coal River Valley
Established: 2003
Elevation: 30m-100m
Soil Type: Dolerite & self-mulching black vertosols over sandstone
Aspect: North Facing
Size: 6ha under vine
Tasting Notes:
Bright aromas of kaffir lime, citrus blossom and fennel lead into a generous palate full of character. Stone fruits of apricot and white peach blend into mandarin and beeswax with a soft note of macadamia. Finishing long with a silky texture and strong line of acid.
Optimal Drinking: 2024 - 2033 +
Winefront Review by Gary Walsh
Posted on 18 July 2024
"Lovely to get to try some Pooley wines again. Justin Bubb is a top chap and a gifted winemaker.
Quite some struck match here, though it’s in balance with the volume of fruit. Lime, nougat, white flowers, a cool mint/aniseed top note, and cinnamon biscuits. It’s bright, flinty, juicy citrus acidity in with lime and white peach, almond meal richness, with a lime zesty finish of excellent length. Superb."
96 points
2023 Butcher's Hill Pinot Noir
Varietal/s: Pinot Noir
Alcohol: 13%
GI: Tasmania, Australia
TA: 5.90 g/L
PH: 3.62
Clone/s: MV6, 115, 114, ABEL and 777
Yield: 4 T/Ha
Baume: 12.5
Harvest Date: 31st March
Bottle Date: 27th February 2024
Vinification:
Fruit was handpicked. 20% Whole bunch was included in the ferment with the balance being destemmed. The ferment was inoculated with XR yeast. Fermentation was approximately 20 days on skins. The wine was matured for just under 11 months in French oak barriques of which 35% was new. The cooperage used was Sirugue.
Vineyard:
Location: Butcher’s Hill, Richmond.
Appellation: Coal River Valley
Established: 2003
Elevation: 30m-100m
Soil Type: Dolerite & self-mulching black vertosols over sandstone
Aspect: North Facing
Size: 6ha under vine
Tasting Notes:
Perfumed notes of spiced cherry, cocoa and violets on the nose before developing into cranberries, pepperberry and currants on the palate. Underscored by impressions of truffle, spice and chocolate. Soft tannins make for a smooth finish, with firm acidity creating an everlasting length.
Optimal Drinking: 2024 - 2033+